Once you’ve selected your pattern here is the rundown of the basic alterations with references to patterns I’ve worked with. Since I’m having trouble with photos on this blog, I will try linking to my project pages at Burdastyle.com. Please read through all the directions first only because if you have questions it is always better to ask before you cut out your fabric.

FOR WOVEN TOPS WITH EMPIRE WAISTS:

Step 1: Select your size based on your current above bust measurement or bust measurement depending on the pattern company. Waist and hip measurements are really not that important with the pattern adjustments.

Step 2: Measure the bust pattern pieces you’ve cut out to double check for fit. If there are darts, I recommend changing them to gathers or pleats for more flexibility. If the ease in the pattern is close fitting, add triangular inserts for your cup size being careful to not change the arm and necklines. Once you have your busts tamed, measure your rib cage below your busts. Check the paper pattern’s ease and measurement. If this is very snug, you will need to adjust this. If you choose a woven cotton with some stretch you should be alright unless you put on a lot of weight.

Step 3: Below the empire waist, there should be either a gather or pleat detail already. Add a total of 4″ in this area only! If it is a gathered lower panel cut on a center front fold, add 2″ to the CF line so you end up with an extra 4″ CF front that you gather up as directed to match the empire line. If you add it to the sides or back you look more billowy. If it is a pleated lower panel, hide the additional 4″ with either deeper pleats or extra pleats that are sewn up to match the empire line. This gives the bump room to grow.

Step 4: The hem will need to be adjusted as well. If the pattern is not a tunic style, you will need to lengthen the front and back pieces to your hip line. This way as the bump pulls up, you won’t be exposed. It is next to impossible to get a straight line hem on the front panels because of the changes you’re going through. If you are really concerned about this, the extra adjustment would be a gentle dip that starts side front and is deepest at center front. I didn’t worry about this and so far, the extra fabric has been enough room and doesn’t really pull up that much. This might change in the last month but I figure by them people won’t question the hem.

Step 5: Sew up as directed remembering the extra center front pleats or gathering when that step arrives.

FOR KNIT TOPS:

Step 1: Select your size based on your current above bust measurement or bust measurement depending on the pattern company. Waist and hip measurements are really not that important with the pattern adjustments we’re going to make.

Step 2: the only change you need to do to a top back  is extend the length to hip level (in my case as a petite, that’s 2″), this way as the bump pulls the top up you won’t be exposed.

Step 3: on the front, extend the front 4″ + the amount you extended the back to reach your hip line. In my case 6″ extension. Of course if the pattern starts out tunic length or longer, you can stick with just the four inches on the front panel and no changes to the back panel.

Step 4: On the new front panel, mark the side seam 3″ below the bust point. At the hem line, extend the side seam out 2″. Now draw this new side seam up to the waist line, keeping it to 2″. Now you will need to grade steeply to the point 3″ below the bust point. It looks a little crazy but your stomach will do that too! This adjustment adds 4″ to the front panel width.

Step 5: Now sew up the shoulders as directed but before sewing up the side seams you get to do some rouching. Starting from your point 3″ below the bust point, measure down 12″ and mark. Cut a narrow piece of elastic (1/4″) to 8″ in length. Stretch the elastic to the 12″ mark and pin just inside of seam line. Sew. This should shorten the front panel 4″ therefore the side seams on your front and back panels will now match and you sew the side seams up and follow the pattern directions to completion. This creates a pretty side detail and drapes the knit fabric around the bump.

KNIT ALTERNATIVES:

Instead of rouching, you can do a series of tucks or pleats as long as they reduce the front panel at the side seam by the 4″. You could also gather with thread, and sew that into the side seam without the elastic. I haven’t tried this one, but I went with the elastic because it would stretch more with the on and off and have more adjustment. If you try it other ways, let me know how that works!

Another alternative is lengthen the front and back panels to your hip line and plus 4″ to both and rouch after you sew up the side seams. This type of alteration looks funky with the pleats and tucks alternative.

So at the moment, the photos will be posted sometime in the next 2 weeks but as I have recently moved to a new home all sewing stuff is still packed up and I haven’t had time to sort it all out.

When searching for maternity friendly patterns you have two options really. One: Maternity ready patterns which are few and far between. I’ve found 1 that I really like which is Butterick 5196 which is a Lifestyle wardrobe pattern. It has a twisted front top in knit or woven variations with Capri pants. The drawback of course is I really don’t want 13 shirts with the same twist front and I need sleeves for my job’s dress code. The other maternity pattern that I like is in Burda Magazine French version. I know real helpful huh? It was a mistaken description on Ebay, but with Google translate I might use it, one day.

Two: Alter regular patterns to fit maternity! This option opens up a world of possibility. Here are my tips for selecting styles that work with the bump!

a) seek patterns with no waistline or an empire waistline

b) avoid patterns with darts below the waist because they will be too fitted

c) Knit patterns are far friendlier but if you pick a woven pattern, select ones with gathering or pleating detail on the front around the empire line to accommodate the bump. Also with woven fabrics be wary of fitted shoulders and of darts above the waist as well. Pleats, loose sleeves (esp. Kimono style or dolman style) and wrap details work best.

Always remember that you’re going to change shape even if you don’t really gain that much weight. I’m halfway through and I’ve only gained 6 pounds but the way my body’s adjusted I stopped wearing button pants and shirts around the end of the first trimester and switched to stretchy pants. My bra size has also gone up a cup and a band size.

And my final tip before I get to pattern adjustments is this: professional RTW pants from several stores with large stretchy panels will become your favorites, especially the denim lines  because you get tired of wearing stretchy work pants or sweat pants every day. At least I did! So I focused on making tops.

My first attempts were knit patterns that satisfied my criteria in style that I just made in a bigger size. I also had to guess because I made this in my first month! The first top was Simplicity 2369. Because it comes with multiple sizes in one pattern I simply cut the pattern with the shoulder and bust area in size 18 (one size up from my pre-pregnancy size) and the lower half starting about an 2″ under the bust steeply graded to size 20. I also made sure it was a little longer to make hip length after the bump grew. I did not take into account the rather generous ease in this pattern already so the sleeves hit below my elbow and the top was generally too big. Now at 4 & 1/2 months its fitting better but not as nice as I would like. However there is so much bump room it will probably make it the full 9 months! Check out my project page for photos!

My second maternity top was Vogue Elements knit sheath dress with cowl neckline. Sadly its out of print so I’ll post a picture of the pattern and finished project shortly. I made it up a size as well in XL (20-22) but because it was so close-fitting originally this one will not make it the entire 9 months.

After these 2 attempts which were not entirely satisfactory I decided to do some research. There is a wealth of information out there, but sadly its not all accurate. Luckily with some common sense, pattern drafting knowledge, and research trips to maternity stores, I have condensed it down into a basic set of adjustments.  (continued in part 2)

The story behind this shirt: I had a knit top from New York and Co. that I really liked the cut of. I was also wearing it out. So I very sloppily drafted a copy in order to make new ones. This version was made into a tunic instead of a blouse and I added ease for the sheer woven (non-stretch) fabric. The long sleeves ended up way too narrow so rather than cutting them off I just kept them as a cool side thing, no idea if they even have an official design name.

So now that I’ve gotten one UFP down, there are several more to go.

As a new blogger I am going to document my list of UFPs and finish them. As a journalist and procrastinator, I find deadlines to be very motivating. And as proof I’ll post photos! (no pudding sorry!)

Once I work through the stack of UFPs, last count to be about 9, before New Year’s, I will continue to document my progress as a seamstress and try projects like SWAP (Sewing with a Purpose), online contests, fitting, pattern drafting, and difficult techniques to get my butt away from my comfort zone! I plan to experiment! Whee!