Well now that I’m pregnant, I’ve been working on some maternity clothing to save money! After much trial and error I have some tips and tricks!
When searching for maternity friendly patterns you have two options really. One: Maternity ready patterns which are few and far between. I’ve found 1 that I really like which is Butterick 5196 which is a Lifestyle wardrobe pattern. It has a twisted front top in knit or woven variations with Capri pants. The drawback of course is I really don’t want 13 shirts with the same twist front and I need sleeves for my job’s dress code. The other maternity pattern that I like is in Burda Magazine French version. I know real helpful huh? It was a mistaken description on Ebay, but with Google translate I might use it, one day.
Two: Alter regular patterns to fit maternity! This option opens up a world of possibility. Here are my tips for selecting styles that work with the bump!
a) seek patterns with no waistline or an empire waistline
b) avoid patterns with darts below the waist because they will be too fitted
c) Knit patterns are far friendlier but if you pick a woven pattern, select ones with gathering or pleating detail on the front around the empire line to accommodate the bump. Also with woven fabrics be wary of fitted shoulders and of darts above the waist as well. Pleats, loose sleeves (esp. Kimono style or dolman style) and wrap details work best.
Always remember that you’re going to change shape even if you don’t really gain that much weight. I’m halfway through and I’ve only gained 6 pounds but the way my body’s adjusted I stopped wearing button pants and shirts around the end of the first trimester and switched to stretchy pants. My bra size has also gone up a cup and a band size.
And my final tip before I get to pattern adjustments is this: professional RTW pants from several stores with large stretchy panels will become your favorites, especially the denim lines because you get tired of wearing stretchy work pants or sweat pants every day. At least I did! So I focused on making tops.
My first attempts were knit patterns that satisfied my criteria in style that I just made in a bigger size. I also had to guess because I made this in my first month! The first top was Simplicity 2369. Because it comes with multiple sizes in one pattern I simply cut the pattern with the shoulder and bust area in size 18 (one size up from my pre-pregnancy size) and the lower half starting about an 2″ under the bust steeply graded to size 20. I also made sure it was a little longer to make hip length after the bump grew. I did not take into account the rather generous ease in this pattern already so the sleeves hit below my elbow and the top was generally too big. Now at 4 & 1/2 months its fitting better but not as nice as I would like. However there is so much bump room it will probably make it the full 9 months! Check out my project page for photos!
My second maternity top was Vogue Elements knit sheath dress with cowl neckline. Sadly its out of print so I’ll post a picture of the pattern and finished project shortly. I made it up a size as well in XL (20-22) but because it was so close-fitting originally this one will not make it the entire 9 months.
After these 2 attempts which were not entirely satisfactory I decided to do some research. There is a wealth of information out there, but sadly its not all accurate. Luckily with some common sense, pattern drafting knowledge, and research trips to maternity stores, I have condensed it down into a basic set of adjustments. (continued in part 2)
